Faceted Blue Kyanite Necklace | One of a Kind
Faceted Blue Kyanite Necklace | One of a Kind
What I love: the cut. Faceted square-cut blue kyanite is notoriously difficult to make because kyanite splits along its grain — you lose a lot getting to a clean cut like this. The colour is the prize: saturated, almost ink-blue, the shade collectors hold out for.
A note: I reached for this necklace almost daily for years. I only released it because I knew the right person would recognise it. Someone did.
Why I made it this way
- Saturated, ink-blue faceted kyanite — the shade collectors hold out for
- Kyanite at the throat, for clear speech
- My own daily-wear piece, released once
- True one of a kind — one existed, and it's gone
Materials & details
- Faceted blue kyanite on a gold-plated chain
- 18″ (45 cm) with a 2″ (5 cm) extender
This one has sold. There was one. No restock, no waiting list, no second run — that's what one of a kind means here. I leave sold pieces up so you can see what actually moves through this collection.
It was made as part of a three-piece set. The other two are still here, listed on their own:
- Amazonite & Moss Agate Stretch Bracelet — amazonite at the wrist, for the courage to use your voice
- Moss Agate Drop Earrings — moss agate at the ears, to keep you rooted while you do
Care
One-of-a-kind pieces deserve one-of-a-kind care. Avoid water, perfume, and lotion. Store flat in a soft pouch. Full jewelry care guide here.
Affirmation: Kyanite never needs cleansing because it never holds what isn't true — I speak the same way.
Out of stock
Crystal Care Guide
Crystal Care Guide
This is the keep-it-lasting guide — where your jewelry sleeps, and why that decides how long it lives. For deep-cleaning steps by metal and stone, that's the full cleaning guide.
Most jewelry doesn't wear out from being worn. It wears out from twelve hours a day sitting in the wrong place — tangled on a dish by the sink, loose in a drawer with harder pieces, or in a bathroom where the steam never quite leaves. Storage is the least glamorous half of care and easily the more important one.
The one daily habit
Last on, first off. Jewelry goes on after your lotion, perfume, and hairspray — and comes off before you shower, swim, sleep, or clean. That single habit prevents most wear before it starts.
The second half of it matters just as much: put it somewhere. A piece taken off and left on the counter is a piece getting scratched, knocked into a sink, or slowly tarnishing in bathroom humidity.
Storage by metal
Six metals turn up in most jewelry boxes, and they fail in completely different ways. Silver reacts with air. Plating wears from friction. Gold-filled barely does either. Knowing which you own decides how to store it — and if you're not sure, a good seller will tell you plainly.
Sterling silver (925) — airtight, always
Silver darkens because it reacts with air and moisture. Take the air away and the reaction mostly stops. A zip bag, or a closed box with an anti-tarnish strip, and a piece that used to need polishing monthly will go a year looking fine.
Counterintuitive but true: silver you wear often tarnishes less. Skin oils slow the reaction. The chain that goes black is the one that sat untouched.
Store it: airtight, dry, with an anti-tarnish strip. Never in the bathroom.
Silver-plated — treat it like plating, not like silver
Easy to confuse with sterling, and stored very differently. Silver-plated means a thin layer of silver over a base metal, so it faces both problems at once: it tarnishes like silver and wears through like plating.
Airtight storage helps with the tarnish. What matters more is that nothing rubs it — once the plating wears through at an edge, polishing makes it worse rather than better, because you're polishing away what's left.
Store it: its own pouch, airtight if you can, and be gentler with the polishing cloth than you would with sterling.
Gold-filled (14K) — the durable one people mistake for plating
This is the one worth knowing about, because it's routinely lumped in with gold-plated and it shouldn't be.
Gold-filled has a legally defined minimum: the gold layer must be at least 1/20th of the item's total weight — roughly a hundred times thicker than standard plating. It's mechanically bonded under heat and pressure rather than deposited in a bath. In practice that means it can be worn daily for years without wearing through, and it doesn't turn skin green.
Store it: like fine jewelry — dry, separate, out of the bathroom. No airtight bag needed. It won't tarnish the way silver does, but it will still scratch, so keep it off harder pieces.
Gold-plated — separate, soft, alone
Plating is a microns-thin layer of gold over a base metal, and the enemy isn't air — it's friction. A plated pendant rattling in a drawer against a silver ring will lose its finish at the contact points first, usually along an edge where you'll notice it.
One soft pouch per piece. Not a shared pouch — a pouch each.
Store it: individually pouched, no contact with anything, and never loose in a dish. This is the metal that most rewards good storage and most punishes bad.
Stainless steel (316L) — the easy one
Won't tarnish, won't react, doesn't need airtight anything. 316L is the surgical grade — nickel-free, waterproof, and genuinely low-maintenance.
Store it: anywhere dry. The only job is keeping it from scratching softer pieces, because it's harder than most of what's in the box with it.
Brass & copper — the ones that patina
Both develop a patina with air and skin contact, and both can leave a temporary green mark on skin. That's a normal chemical reaction between copper and the acids in your sweat — not a sign of poor quality, and it washes off.
Some people love the darkened look; some want it bright. Either is fine, but the storage is the same: dry and airtight slows it down. A sealed bag with an anti-tarnish strip works exactly as it does for silver.
Store it: airtight and dry, especially in humid months. Keep it away from anything plated — brass is harder than a gold layer.
If you own more than one — the mixed-metal rule
Store by hardness and finish, not by outfit. Stainless steel and brass are hard and will mark plated and gold-filled pieces. Sterling and silver-plated want airtight; gold-filled and stainless don't need it.
The simple version: anything plated gets its own pouch. Everything else just needs to be dry and not touching.
Storage by stone — which stones scratch which
Hardness decides everything. A stone at 7 on the Mohs scale will scratch a stone at 5 every time they touch, and "every time they touch" is what a jewelry box is.
- Hard and happy anywhere — quartz, amethyst, citrine, tiger's eye, garnet, topaz. These are the ones doing the scratching. Store them away from the soft ones.
- Soft and porous — keep dry and cushioned — turquoise, opal, moonstone, malachite, amber, pearl. Humidity, oils and pressure all mark them.
- Pearls, flat and never hanging. Silk thread stretches under a pearl strand's own weight. Laid flat, a restrung strand lasts decades.
- Selenite, nowhere damp. It absorbs moisture from the air itself and will cloud in a humid room without ever touching water.
- Aura quartz and coated stones — the finish is a surface layer. Store it where nothing rubs it. More on why in the lab-grown and coated stones guide.
Boxes, pouches, or rolls?
All three work. They work for different things.
- A lined box — best for daily pieces you want visible and reachable. Look for individual compartments; an open tray just recreates the drawer problem.
- Soft pouches — the workhorse. Cheap, kind to plating, and the only realistic way to store a lot of pieces separately.
- A jewelry roll — built for travel, and genuinely good at home for earrings and studs, which are the pieces that vanish.
- Hanging organizers — lovely for necklaces and chains, which don't tangle when they hang. Not for anything soft or plated — they leave everything exposed to air and dust.
The upgrade that costs almost nothing: anti-tarnish strips. A few dollars, they last about six months, and they do more for silver than any polish.
Storing jewelry through a dry prairie winter
This one is local and almost nobody writes about it, so — from Calgary, with feeling.
Winter here means indoor humidity that drops through the floor. Furnace air can pull a room down to 15% relative humidity, and that does two things nobody warns you about.
Organic and porous stones dry out. Pearls, amber, opal and turquoise all hold a small amount of water as part of their structure. Sustained dry air can dull the lustre on pearls and, over years, craze an opal. Keep them in a closed box rather than open on a dresser, and away from any heat register.
Strung pieces go brittle. Silk and cotton thread lose flexibility in dry air, which is why bracelets seem to snap in February. If a strung piece feels stiff, it's due for a restring.
The flip side: silver loves our winters. Dry air is low-tarnish air. It's the summer humidity and the bathroom steam that do the damage here.
What actually ruins jewelry in storage
In rough order of how often I see it:
- The bathroom. Steam, daily, forever. It's the single worst room in the house for jewelry and the most common place to keep it.
- Everything in one dish. Hard stones scratch soft stones, plating rubs off, chains knot.
- Storing it damp. Put a piece away without drying it and you've sealed moisture in with it.
- Sunny windowsills. Amethyst, rose quartz, citrine and fluorite fade in direct sun — permanently. A windowsill is a slow bleach.
- Hanging pearls. Quiet, gradual, and it ends with a broken strand.
Traveling with jewelry
Give each piece its own pouch. Thread delicate necklaces through a drinking straw or a small bag so they can't tangle. Keep studs in a hard case so nothing bends, and pack the whole lot in your carry-on — never checked.
A tangle-free arrival is worth the two extra minutes, and a chain that arrives knotted often arrives kinked, which doesn't come out.
How long does gold plating last?
Honestly: it depends on how you treat it, and stored well it can be years rather than months. Plating wears from friction, sweat, perfume and moisture — not from time on a shelf.
Signs it's thinning: a warmer, pinker or greyer tone at the edges and high-contact points first — the back of a ring band, the underside of a pendant. Re-plating is a normal, affordable service, not a repair. A well-loved piece may need it once a decade.
Gold-filled is a different story — the layer is thick enough that most pieces never need refinishing at all.
When to bring a piece in
Care includes knowing when something needs a little help. Restring a bracelet that's gone stretchy before it goes. Have a loose clasp checked before you lose the piece attached to it. Refresh heavily-worn plating rather than retiring the piece.
A well-kept piece is one you'll pass down.
Care at a glance
- Sterling silver — wipe after wear, store airtight with an anti-tarnish strip
- Silver-plated — airtight, own pouch, gentle with polish
- Gold-filled — dry and separate; no airtight needed
- Gold-plated — soft pouch each, stored separately, no friction
- Stainless steel — easiest of all; just keep it off softer pieces
- Brass & copper — airtight and dry, or let it patina on purpose
- Hard stones — store away from soft ones, they do the scratching
- Porous stones — turquoise, opal, moonstone, pearl: dry, cushioned, closed box
- Pearls — flat, never hanging
- Everything — dry, apart, and out of the bathroom
Storage FAQ
How should I store sterling silver so it doesn't tarnish?
Airtight and dry — a zip bag or closed box with an anti-tarnish strip. Air and moisture cause tarnish, so removing the air mostly stops it. Wearing silver regularly also helps, because skin oils slow the reaction.
How do I store gold-plated jewelry so the plating lasts?
One soft pouch per piece, stored so nothing rubs against it. Plating wears from friction rather than air, so contact with harder metals is what thins it — usually at edges and high-contact points first. Keep it dry, off the dresser, and out of the bathroom.
What's the difference between gold-filled and gold-plated?
Thickness, and it's a big one. Gold-filled must legally contain at least 1/20th of the item's weight in gold — roughly a hundred times more than standard plating — bonded under heat and pressure. Gold-plated is a microns-thin deposited layer. Gold-filled can be worn daily for years without wearing through; plated needs more careful storage.
Does stainless steel jewelry need special storage?
No. 316L stainless doesn't tarnish, react or need airtight storage. The only consideration is that it's harder than most jewelry metals, so keep it from scratching plated or softer pieces stored beside it.
Why does my brass or copper jewelry turn my skin green?
Copper reacts with the acids in your sweat, leaving a temporary green mark. It's a normal chemical reaction, not a sign of poor quality, and it washes off. Storing the piece dry and airtight slows the patina; a clear barrier coat on the inside of a ring band prevents the mark entirely.
Is it bad to keep jewelry in the bathroom?
Yes, and it's the most common mistake. Daily steam tarnishes silver, works into settings, and dulls porous stones. A bedroom drawer is far better than a beautiful dish by the shower.
Can I store all my jewelry together?
Not in one compartment. Hard stones scratch soft ones and metal rubs plating off at every contact point. Separate pouches or a compartmented box solves it for a few dollars.
Which gemstones scratch other stones?
Anything harder on the Mohs scale scratches anything softer. Quartz, amethyst, citrine, garnet and topaz sit around 7 and will mark opal, moonstone, turquoise, malachite and pearl, which sit between 2.5 and 6. Store the hard ones apart from the soft ones.
Should pearls be stored hanging or flat?
Flat, always. The silk thread stretches under the weight of the strand when hung, and a stretched strand eventually breaks. Lay them flat in a soft pouch, away from harder pieces.
Does dry winter air damage jewelry?
It can. Very low indoor humidity dulls pearls and opals over time and makes silk and cotton stringing brittle, which is why strung bracelets often break mid-winter. Keep organic stones in a closed box, away from heat vents.
Go deeper
- Cleaning & tarnish, step by step: The Complete Jewelry Care Guide →
- Cleansing a ring or necklace: How to Cleanse Your Jewelry →
- Cleansing loose stones (and the water chart): How to Cleanse Crystals Safely →
- Lab-grown, hydro and coated stones: Are Lab-Grown Gemstones Real? →
- What your stone means: Crystal Properties Guide →
Cared for, worn often, passed down. That's the whole idea.
